Tips & Advice

Another weather alert for Liguria and Cinque Terre

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Starting at midnight tonight through 6pm tomorrow (October 24) a level orange weather alert has been issued for the entire region of Liguria (which includes the Cinque Terre).

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted a fast-moving storm that is expected to traverse the entire region from west to east with heavy rains, potentially gusty winds and thunderstorms.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (focaccia and snack bar, located in the marina)

Non Solo Pizza (street food)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 6pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

Why are storm warnings and weather alerts so frequent in the Cinque Terre?

/ Cinque Terre Insider

If you follow the blog or my social media accounts, you’re probably wondering why we have so many storm warnings and weather alerts here in the Cinque Terre.

If a picture is worth a thousand words, these videos are probably worth a million.

The date was October 25, 2011. In just six hours a storm dumped 54.2cm (that’s over 21 inches) of torrential rain onto our already fragile territory causing streams to overflow and (mostly abandoned) drystone terraces to collapse.

The villages of Vernazza and Monterosso were devastated by flooding and mudslides. Four locals lost their lives: three in Vernazza and one in Monterosso. The outcome could have been much, much worse.

The same storm rocked the Val di Vara (located on the opposite side of ridge from the Cinque Terre) and left seven victims in its wake. Just two weeks later, another storm with copious amounts of rain flooded Genoa, killing six people.

To put it simply, we have much at stake and much to fear when it comes to storms here. In the event of a natural disaster, city halls—and ultimately their mayors—can be held responsible in both civil and penal courts if adequate security measures were not taken in advance. For this reason, most city halls err on the side of caution and automatically enact storm warning action plans as soon as the alert is issued. Can it be annoying that schools are cancelled or businesses are forced to close? Absolutely. But I’d much rather be inconvenienced than repeat the tragedy we experienced in 2011.

Perspective changes everything.

Another weather alert for Liguria and the Cinque Terre: October 20 & 21

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From 5pm today until 6pm tomorrow, October 21, a level orange weather alert has been issued for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas. Other areas of Liguria (the region in which we are located) are on either an orange or red alert.

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted heavy rains, gusty winds, thunderstorms and rough seas. In many areas of Liguria the ground has already reached the saturation point due to significant amounts of rain so experts are concerned about potential flooding.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (snack bar in the marina)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 6pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

What you need to know before hiking in the Cinque Terre

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I recently posted this on both Instagram and Facebook, but seeing its overwhelming popularity I’ve decided to publish it here on the blog, too.

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Hiking in the Cinque Terre.

What could be better?  But there are definitely some things you should know first:

  • This is hiking, NOT walking. You’ll need to be in decent shape as you’ll definitely get your heart pumping with the steep stairs and inclines.
Photo: Nicole O’Neil
  • You’ll need to be sure-footed. The terrain is uneven and the trails are a combination of stairs (LOTS of them), packed dirt, stones and pebbles.  And oftentimes there won’t be a handrail (heads up for those of you with a fear of heights). img_8707
  • Wear proper footwear.  At the very least, you’ll need athletic trainers (but with decent tread as you’ll need the grip).  Don’t even think about hiking in slick-bottomed shoes, sandals or flip-flops.  Just don’t.  If you do, be warned that you can be ticketed and fined (rightfully so, trail rescues are costly and ultimately Italian taxpayers foot the bill—no pun intended).
  • Don’t hike in the rain.  Trails become slippery and dangerous when wet.  And did you read where I said that oftentimes there are no handrails?  Don’t risk it.  Plus, the trails are officially closed during poor weather conditions.
  • Get off the beaten path (or get a very early start on the popular trails). The Cinque Terre National Park offers 120km of trails, but most people only know about the coastal trail that spans 12km.  I love hiking the lesser known trails that offer just as much beauty and a whole lot more tranquillity. 
  • The best months for hiking in the Cinque Terre are April, May, June, September and October.  July and August are usually just too hot for pleasurable hiking.  Between November and March you can get some great hiking in, but only when the weather cooperates.
Amy hiking to Monesteroli

Photo: Nicole O’Neil

If you’ve read all of the above and you still feel you’re up for it then by all means, get out hiking! You’re going to love it.

img_8482

Level orange weather alert in the Cinque Terre

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Starting at 6pm a level orange weather alert has been issued for the entirety of Liguria, the region in which the Cinque Terre villages are located.

The Cinque Terre are located where you see letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted thunderstorms and heavy rains. The alert lifts tomorrow, July 28, at 2pm.

As this is a relatively serious alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect: businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, automobiles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding, the hiking trails are closed and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area).

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as the majority of businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open. If you are out and about during the weather alert, please be prudent.

Get off the beaten track (and on an e-bike) in the Cinque Terre

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Nestled high on the hill above Manarola (but still within the Cinque Terre National Park) lies a tiny secondary village called Volastra. I adore this peaceful village and have oftentimes said I can imagine myself living here. If you visit it, you’ll see why.

Volastra is home to a twenty-year-old budding entrepreneur with a burning desire to unite two of the things that he loves most: cycling and a passion for his homeland. Luca Capellini’s new business, Italy Bike Resort, offers visitors the chance to get off the beaten track and high above the crowds on brand new, state-of-the-art e-bikes.

Luca offers a total of seven mountain bikes with pedal assist, making even the most daunting inclines in the Cinque Terre doable. If you’re feeling adventurous you can head out on a bike on your own while those wanting a bit of coaching and local insight can hire Luca as their guide.

Luca has created itineraries for all levels (beginner, intermediate and advanced) and if you choose to head out on your own he’s full of tips and advice. The e-bike’s battery lasts for circa 70km (although that figure varies based on the level of “assist” you require), so you should be worry-free for the day.

Photo credit: Roberto Andreoli

All you need to know

Rates:

€15 per bike for one hour

€25 per bike for two hours

€35 per bike for a half day (either from 9am to 1pm or from 2pm to 6pm)

€65 per bike for the entire day (9am to 6pm)

€110 per bike for a two-day rental (pick up at 9am on day 1 and return by 6pm on day 2)

Included with each rental is a helmet, tire repair kit, and lock (so you can stop and sightsee along the way).

Heads up: Luca has a grace period of 30 minutes for the return time (so you can be on “Italian time”) but if you are more than 30 minutes late on your return you will be charged for an extra hour.

If you’d like Luca as your guide (totally worth it, in my opinion) his rates are very reasonable (just keep in mind that the bike rental is not included in this rate):

Solo cyclist: €40 flat rate

Two or more cyclists: €20 per person

Fine print details:

  • If you plan to rent a bike and head out on your own, you must be at least 18 years of age.
  • If you are a minor, you must be at least 12 years of age and accompanied by an adult.
  • When you rent a bike, you will be required to leave a document (driver’s license, passport or similar), sign a waiver + a credit card will be needed for a security deposit (a hold will be placed on your credit card and will be removed once the bike has been safely returned without damage).
  • Riders will be held responsible for any damages to the bike.
  • Luca provides repair kits for all riders (in case you end up with a flat tire). If you take the bike out on your own and require Luca’s intervention to fix a flat, a supplemental fee will apply.

How to get to Volastra + how to find the rental point

Volastra is a secondary village and because of its location high on a hilltop it is not connected to the Cinque Terre railway line. That means you have three alternatives to reach the village:

  • HIKE: You can hike from Manarola to Volastra, via the Sentiero Panoramico and trail 506. It’s an entirely uphill climb, so expect to break a sweat (it will take you right around a half hour to get there).
  • BUS: The ATC national park buses to Volastra leave periodically throughout the day. Tickets for the bus can be purchased from the TI office at the Manarola train station or onboard from the driver (at a slightly higher rate). Here’s the schedule which is valid until November 3rd, 2019:
FERIALE = Monday through Saturday FESTIVO = Sundays and holidays
  • TAXI: If you don’t feel like hoofing it or being tied to the bus schedule, you can hire a local taxi or NCC. Expect to pay €30 from either Riomaggiore or Manarola (for up to four people, inquire for rates if you are more people). Here are the numbers for the local company called 5Terre Transfer (which is based in Riomaggiore): +39 340 356 5268 (Marzio) / +39 339 130 1183 (Luciana)

Once you are in Volastra, make your way to Tiabuscion restaurant (which I highly recommend, by the way!) on the main street.

Just past the restaurant, you’ll see a red mailbox mounted on the fence with signs indicating the directions for Manarola and Corniglia. Head in the direction indicated for Corniglia.

Continue walking up this little lane just a minute or two further and you will see a sign for Italy Bike Resort on your left at number 405 Via Montello.

You’ve arrived!

If Luca isn’t out front with the bikes, ring the buzzer at the front gate.

As there are a limited number of bikes available (and seeing that it takes a bit of effort to get to Volastra) I definitely recommend booking with Luca in advance:

italybikeresort@libero.it

Luca: +39 333 412 0939

Michela (Luca’s mom): +39 333 456 2899

In some instances, Luca can meet clients in Manarola with the e-bikes. If this possibility interests you, be sure to ask for more details.

One last word…

There are several e-bike rental points in nearby cities (Levanto to the north and La Spezia to the south) but Luca’s rental point is the very first within the Cinque Terre National Park. What does this mean for you? Aside from supporting local (which is something I stand behind wholeheartedly), you’ll also take away the travel time to get your bike to where you actually want to be: the Cinque Terre.

Buon divertimento!

P.S. Be sure to let Luca know that you found out about Italy Bike Resort here on the blog!

Riomaggiore’s castle debuts as a relaxation & wellness hub

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Riomaggiore’s castle is a pretty special place. Not only does it offer commanding views over the village but it is also rich in history. In fact, the castle was already considered a relic in documents dating to the 1500s; historians believe the castle was constructed in the mid-1200s by the Della Turca family and that it’s primary function was to protect villagers from raids by sea. Now the castle serves a different purpose as a venue for special events (did I mention this is where I got married?) and the village’s ProLoco Association has a permanent exhibit on display detailing the agricultural history of the Cinque Terre.

As pirates are a non-issue these days, Riomaggiore’s castle now offers a different kind of refuge for both villagers and visitors alike: a wellness hub with holistic massages, Reiki sessions, yoga classes and wine tastings. Sound divine? It is.

One of the (many) views from Riomaggiore’s castle

I’m a big fan of local, grassroots initiatives and when I caught word of this relaunch I knew I wanted to write about it on Cinque Terre Insider. I messaged Paola Andreoli (a local who also happens to be an acclaimed Jikiden Reiki practitioner) for more details. She insisted that I try a massage and Reiki session so as to accurately portray the experiences offered. Let’s just say she didn’t have to twist my arm to accept!

Certified massage therapist Chiara Pusceddu and Reiki practitioner Paola Andreoli (both are Riomaggiore locals)

I started my morning with a holistic, anti-stress massage by Chiara Pusceddu, a certified massage therapist. FYI: Both the massage and Reiki sessions take place in the privacy of one of the castle’s turrets.

If you’re the modest type, have no fear: Chiara is very professional and strategically uses a towel to only uncover the zone she is actively working on (I thought I’d mention this because we’ve all had one of those massages where all modesty is thrown to the wind!). Everything about the experience was calming, from the flickering candles and essential oils to the choice of background music. Chiara’s touch was gentle yet effective and I felt like butter afterwards!

After my massage was complete, Paola Andreoli entered for my Jikiden Reiki session. I had only experienced Reiki once before (many, many moons ago) and I had forgotten how tranquil and soothing the sessions are! If you are unfamiliar with this Japanese hands-on healing, read up on it here. One of my favorite parts was sharing a cup of tea and a little chat with Paola after my session. It was then that she revealed what she had sensed about my personality and my current state of being. It was all very calming and zen-like (with a good dose of self-reflection).

For all the yogis out there, Ashtanga yoga classes led by Gabriele Musetti are offered on Wednesdays on the castle’s upper terrace (weather permitting). If you’ve never taken an Ashtanga class before you might want to read up on it beforehand (word to the wise, you will break a sweat!). The cost is €20 per person and Gabriele holds the classes in both English and Italian.

Photo credit: Gabriele Musetti

Riomaggiore’s ProLoco has also introduced wine tastings on the castle’s upper terrace (with gorgeous views!) on Friday evenings at 6:30pm. For €35 per person you can learn about (and obviously taste!) three local wines and if you’re lucky you might receive a surprise visit from one of the winemakers!

Photo credit: Fabrice Van Opdenbosch

If you’re interested in booking any of the above, here are the contact details (all numbers have WhatsApp so that’s a great way to text if you are outside of Italy):

HOLISTIC MASSAGE

Chiara Pusceddu

+39 349 891 2457

Cost: €80 for a one-hour session

JIKIDEN REIKI

Paola Andreoli

+39 375 526 7323

Cost: €45 for a one-hour session

ASHTANGA YOGA

Gabriele Musetti

+39 349 323 6896 or gabrimusetti@gmail.com

Cost: €20 per person for a one-hour class

WINE TASTING

Paola Andreoli

+39 375 526 7323

Cost: €35 per person, lasts circa 1 1/2 hours

Enjoy!

Why smart travelers book direct, and so should you

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We are in an age of instant gratification, where people want answers fast. Actually, faster than fast, they want them instantaneously with the click of a button (or tap of a touchscreen). Hence the success of the huge online travel agencies (or OTAs) like Booking(.com), AirBnB and Expedia, just to name a few. These OTAs are able to offer instant (or nearly so) booking confirmations without lag time.

But convenience has a cost. And that cost, cari amici, is ultimately passed on to you, the consumer. Did you know most of the OTAs charge hosts and hoteliers 15-18% commission? For hosts to achieve their target profit that means prices are being inflated to cover commission costs. Or, in the case of AirBnB, a lower commission (3-5%) is charged to the host but the guest is charged a rather hefty AirBnB service fee (the cost of the service fee is on a sliding scale based on multiple factors including length of stay, price of the accommodation and demand). And unlike accommodation hosts, AirBnB charges its “experience” hosts a whopping 20% commission!

So what do the savvy travelers do to save money on their accommodations or experiences? They book direct. Hosts can offer significant savings to those who contact them directly to reserve.*

You might be wondering, “But how in the heck am I supposed to contact these people or places directly?” Here’s how I approach booking accommodations and experiences, without the costly middlemen:

  • First, research your accommodations online using the OTAs (as they are a great tool to discover rates, availability and reviews… all in one place).
  • Once you’ve narrowed down your search to a few different places that suit you and have good reviews (and make sure they have availability for your dates, of course), head on over to Google.
  • The easiest contact details to track down are for hotels, B&Bs, or bonafide businesses where a Google search will usually bring up direct contact details. Just make sure you scroll down past all of the ads (that the big OTAs can afford to sponsor on Google) to find the real search results.

Keep scrolling down past the ads to find the real search results, otherwise you’ll just get lost in an OTA loop

Don’t be fooled by the ad offering to check availability, this is just another way to trick you into booking through an OTA

  • Things get a bit tricky with AirBnB as oftentimes hosts aren’t in the professional sector so it’s harder to know what you should be googling (because “Apartment with beautiful views and central location” just isn’t going to cut it). Try clicking on the host’s profile to read their “about” section to see if you can get any clues as to how to contact them directly.

Tip: I only recommend trying to book directly with an AirBnB host if they have Superhost status or if they’ve got lots of great reviews. Not all AirBnB hosts are created equal and you’re placing a lot of faith in them by booking direct. Make sure you’re booking with a host with an excellent reputation.

That’s actually my profile page on AirBnB and obviously you can see both the name of my family’s vacation rental agency as well as the name of the blog. If that isn’t a lead, I don’t know what is… put on your sleuth hats and get googling!

Some words to the wise

  • If you’re booking direct, there may be some different stipulations regarding the reservation. Make sure the cancellation policy, methods of payment accepted and other details are all very clear to you in advance.
  • Ensure that you have contact details (including phone numbers) and an agreed upon meeting place and time.
  • In the event that you find accommodations or an experience online by googling alone (rather than via an OTA) ask if they can share an AirBnB or other OTA link so you can check their reviews before booking. The nice thing about the OTAs, unlike TripAdvisor, is that they’ve incorporated reviews into the listings and those reviews can only be made by verified past guests.

*When booking direct, do your homework first. Know what rate the host is asking (and on what platform, so that will give you an idea as to what sort of commission they would have to pay if you were to book with the OTA). Ask for their best rate and be willing to pay cash to get it (all the villages have ATMs, just be sure to use the right ones). Keep in mind, AirBnB hosts probably won’t be able to offer much (if any) of a discount on their accommodations (as they are paying just 3-5% in commission) but you will be able to circumvent the AirBnB service fees.

Backstory: Once upon a time (actually, not so many years ago), hosts and hoteliers had to sign contracts when they partnered with OTAs promising that they would offer the same rates across the board (so offering better rates to those who booked directly was a big no-no) . This was called “parity rate” and hosts risked penalties, expulsion from the OTA sites, and even potential lawsuits if they didn’t comply. Luckily for hosts and guests alike, the Italian court deemed the parity rate clause in the contracts illegal (and so did courts in Germany, France and Austria).

If you’ve made it this far, you might be thinking, “Sheesh! That’s a lot of work when I can book in less than a minute online.” Here’s where I’m going to give you a hand here in the Cinque Terre. If you email me (amy@cinqueterreinsider.com) and write DIRECT BOOKINGS in the subject line, I will reply with contact details for my preferred accommodations and experience providers in the Cinque Terre. These are trusted places where I’d send my family & friends, and I’m happy to send you, too.

Ciao for now,

Cinque Terre photography retreat + photo sessions: August/September 2019

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My dear friend and professional photographer, Nicole O’Neil, will be returning to her beloved Cinque Terre September 2-19, 2019 (I’ve actually blogged about her in the past).  For travelers as well as fellow shutterbugs, Nicole has two unique and highly sought after opportunities on offer while she’s here in the Cinque Terre.

Professional Photo Sessions

Professional photos + amazing backdrop + photographer that speaks *perfect* English (and knows this area like the back of her hand) = SIGN ME UP!  Nicole can take amazing photos of you, your kids, your family, your partner, really of whomever your heart desires!  Every time Nicole visits I book a family session and I must say, they make the best Christmas cards (although they might make my relatives and friends just a tad jealous!).

Photography retreat for valuable industry insight… and fun!

Nicole will be hosting an educational and inspirational photography retreat here in the Cinque Terre the first week of September.  Because of her love for this area (and umpteen past visits) Nicole knows how to get you off the beaten path so that you can discover the true essence and beauty of the Cinque Terre. 

Who is a good fit for the photography retreat?  Professionals that are looking to elevate and maximize their business, hobbyists that are looking to take the leap into the professional realm, or simply photographers of all levels looking to acquire knowledge and travel to (and truly experience) an amazing place.  You can read all about the unique activities that Nicole has planned for the retreat here.  There’s no doubt that with the beauty of this area and Nicole’s teaching and mentoring your creative juices will be flowing!  This will be a small and highly personable retreat (with a maximum of 6 participants) so if you’re interested you’ll want to act quickly.

Don’t hesitate to contact Nicole directly for more details on either option.  Her email address is: nicoleoneilphotography@gmail.com

Nicole O’Neil, professional photographer