Cinque Terre blog by a local

How to reserve public beaches in Monterosso this summer

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

We’re into our second pandemic summer here in Italy. In an effort to ensure adequate social distancing, Monterosso’s mayor has passed an ordinance requiring reservations at the village’s public beaches (just like last year). The beaches, which are free of charge, have been equipped with numbered poles and each reservation allows for space for two adults + children next to one of these markers. These beaches are overseen by stewards from the village’s ProLoco association.

Don’t forget that in this post we are talking about public beaches, as an alternative there are also private beaches where you can pay to rent an umbrella and a sun lounger for the day. Usually at these private beach clubs you can just turn up but during peak times they can fill up so beware.

IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW

Time slots for the public beaches are released just 40 hours in advance, so there’s no possibility to reserve weeks (or months) prior.

If you are staying in Monterosso be sure to speak to your hotel or host first as they have the possibility to reserve for you.

These are the three possible time slots:

1. 9am to 12pm

2. 12pm to 3pm

3. 3pm to 7pm.

There are four beaches to choose from:

1. Fegina public beach

Fegina public beach in Monterosso

2. Il Gigante public beach

Il Gigante public beach in Monterosso

3. Portiglione public beach

Portiglione public beach in Monterosso

4. Tragagià public beach

The first three options are in Fegina (the side of the village closest to the train station) whereas Tragagià is the only option in Monterosso Vecchio (the historical center).

Book your spot, step-by-step guide

For non-Italians the reservation process might seem a bit daunting (as the website is only in Italian) but I will walk you through it.

1. Go to: https://spiaggeliberemonterosso.com

2. Scroll down and click on “Per visitatori giornalieri nel Comune e proprietari di seconde case.”

3. Now click the arrow to see the different beach options and then choose one (hint: chances are you’ll probably have to try all of them before you find a spot available).

4. A map will come up of that particular beach. Scroll down to the very bottom and choose your date. Don’t forget: Slots are set to release 40 hours in advance (so you can’t book far in advance).

5. After you’ve chosen your date if you see this message it means there are no spots currently available for that particular day. Boo!

6. Try changing dates and/or beaches until you find an available date. If you see this on your screen… JACKPOT! Choose your preferred time slot and click “PRENOTA” (reserve).

7. Now fill in your details to confirm the reservation and click “PRENOTA.”

Honestly, I doubt they will read or pay much attention to the “Note” section so I wouldn’t invest much time or effort there.

8. In theory at this point you’ve done everything correctly and you should receive a confirmation email to the address you provided. Save that email or take a screenshot so you can show it to the beach steward. You’re all set!

Please be considerate. Be sure to cancel your reservation (via the link in your confirmation email) should you not be able to make it to the beach at your allotted time.

Buon bagno!

Experience Monterosso’s live nativity scene on December 7th

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

The nativity scene is a quintessential holiday tradition in Italy (the Christmas tree, although now just as popular, is considered imported). Most of us are familiar with static versions of the nativity scene but if you are lucky enough to happen upon a dynamic, live version the experience is magical.

Monterosso will host its very own live nativity scene on Saturday, December 7th, from 12 noon to 7pm. Visitors will wind their way through the historical center on medieval lanes where they can witness vignettes portrayed by locals and sample traditional cuisine. If you are in the area that day you won’t want to miss it!

Yet another weather alert for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

UPDATE (3:20pm, 3 November 2019):

The storm warning has been upgraded to level red (maximum alert) until midnight tonight in ZONE C for those areas with medium to large drainage basins. The levels of local rivers and waterways are rising to alarming levels which led to the maximum alert being issued for potential flooding.

⚠️The Cinque Terre villages have small drainage basins so they remain on a level orange (mid-level) alert. However, the alert has been extended to 6pm this evening (at which time it’s expected to downgrade to yellow). Regardless, it is recommended that we stay indoors and out of the weather today.

ORIGINAL POST:

A level orange weather alert has been issued for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas starting tonight at midnight and lasting until tomorrow, November 3, at 3pm. This is the fourth weather alert in the span of a month and locals are feeling the strain of being in a constant state of hyper vigilance.

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists are expecting heavy rains, gusty winds, thunderstorms and rough seas during the alert.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (focaccia and snack bar, located in the marina)

Non Solo Pizza (street food)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors.

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 3pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

P.S. You can monitor the status of the alerts on the ARPAL website (they are the government agency that issues them).

Nearest international airports to the Cinque Terre

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

If you are planning to visit the Cinque Terre either at the beginning or the end of your trip to Italy, flying into (or out of) one of the nearby international airports can save you lots of travel time and hassle.

Italy’s airports

I used to fly in and out of Italy’s largest hubs (Rome and Milan) because ticket prices were always lower. However, once I factored in travel expenses (not only getting to the airport but oftentimes a nearby hotel for early departures or late arrivals) I soon realized it made more sense to pay a little more for my ticket to use the closer airports. Plus, there’s the convenience factor—these airports, although international, are small and super easy to navigate.

Here are my top choices for airports, starting with my favorite:

PISA GALILEO GALILEI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (PSA)

Aeroporto di Pisa

This is my top choice airport as it’s connected directly to the railway line and it couldn’t be simpler to reach (for tickets on the TrenItalia website or app enter Pisa Fermata Aeroporto as your station of choice). And did I mention that from the Cinque Terre it takes as little as 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach the airport? Of course, it all depends on the trains you choose—some will take 2 hours—but that’s directly to the airport with no other means of transport necessary.

GENOA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (GOA)

Aeroporto di Genova

Genoa is also very close to the Cinque Terre (as little as 1 hour and 9 minutes away by train), but this airport slips to my second choice because the airport is not connected directly to the railway line. This means you’ll need to take a shuttle bus (called Volabus) from the airport to either of Genoa’s main train stations: Genova Piazza Principe or Genova Brignole. The bus ride from the airport to the train station will take approximately 30 minutes. Check the train schedule in advance (either via the TrenItalia app or the TrenItalia website) so you know which of the two stations you should head to.

FLORENCE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (FLR)

Aeroporto di Firenze-Peretola (formerly Amerigo Vespucci)

This is my third choice airport to fly in and out of. Florence is further from the Cinque Terre (approximately 2 1/2 hours by train) and you’ll have to take a twenty-minute shuttle bus (called Volainbus) or a twenty-minute tram ride (on the T2 line) to transfer from the airport to the Firenze Santa Maria Novella train station (Florence’s principal station). Oftentimes visitors already have Florence on their travel itinerary so it can make sense to fly in or out of this airport.

If you’re not keen on traveling by train to or from the airport, you can opt for hiring a N.C.C. (that’s short for noleggio con conducente, which is a hired car with driver). To explain to people what these are, I liken them to the black car limousines in NYC (they are usually nicer than a taxi and you have to call or arrange for them in advance, they won’t be at the taxi stands). While obviously more expensive, this is the stress-free way to travel (there’s something to be said about someone standing at the arrivals gate with a board with your name on it). Heads up: If you are 4-6 people oftentimes the price won’t be a whole lot more than what you would spend on the train.

TIP: If you’re staying in Riomaggiore or Manarola I recommend booking 5Terre Transfer as they can drive down into the villages unlike any other N.C.C. (be sure to let them know you were referred by me to get the best rates). Also, if you’re flying into Pisa or Florence they can work in a stop at the Leaning Tower along the way.

I hope you find these practical tips helpful!

P.S. Isn’t my graphic designer awesome? He pulled this map of Italian airports out of his hat for me today. Props to 5Service! Always proud to #supportlocal

Italian train strike from 9pm tonight until 9pm tomorrow

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

Italian rail employees have declared a 24-hour national train strike from 9pm on October 24th to 9pm on October 25th.

Until the strike starts, we won’t know to what extent the it will be observed (and how much it will affect travelers). Keep in mind that even during a strike minimum service is required by law: select regional commuter trains will run between 6am and 9am and between 6pm and 9pm during weekday strikes. Also, Italy’s premier high-speed Freccia trains are not affected by strikes.

For more details about Italian train strikes and what to expect, check out my previous post here. You can also find more details about this specific strike on the official TrenItalia website here (but—ahimè—it’s in Italian).

Deep breaths, don’t stress and safe travels,

Another weather alert for Liguria and Cinque Terre

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

Starting at midnight tonight through 6pm tomorrow (October 24) a level orange weather alert has been issued for the entire region of Liguria (which includes the Cinque Terre).

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted a fast-moving storm that is expected to traverse the entire region from west to east with heavy rains, potentially gusty winds and thunderstorms.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (focaccia and snack bar, located in the marina)

Non Solo Pizza (street food)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 6pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

Why are storm warnings and weather alerts so frequent in the Cinque Terre?

/ Amy Inman

If you follow the blog or my social media accounts, you’re probably wondering why we have so many storm warnings and weather alerts here in the Cinque Terre.

If a picture is worth a thousand words, these videos are probably worth a million.

The date was October 25, 2011. In just six hours a storm dumped 54.2cm (that’s over 21 inches) of torrential rain onto our already fragile territory causing streams to overflow and (mostly abandoned) drystone terraces to collapse.

The villages of Vernazza and Monterosso were devastated by flooding and mudslides. Four locals lost their lives: three in Vernazza and one in Monterosso. The outcome could have been much, much worse.

The same storm rocked the Val di Vara (located on the opposite side of ridge from the Cinque Terre) and left seven victims in its wake. Just two weeks later, another storm with copious amounts of rain flooded Genoa, killing six people.

To put it simply, we have much at stake and much to fear when it comes to storms here. In the event of a natural disaster, city halls—and ultimately their mayors—can be held responsible in both civil and penal courts if adequate security measures were not taken in advance. For this reason, most city halls err on the side of caution and automatically enact storm warning action plans as soon as the alert is issued. Can it be annoying that schools are cancelled or businesses are forced to close? Absolutely. But I’d much rather be inconvenienced than repeat the tragedy we experienced in 2011.

Perspective changes everything.

Another weather alert for Liguria and the Cinque Terre: October 20 & 21

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

From 5pm today until 6pm tomorrow, October 21, a level orange weather alert has been issued for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas. Other areas of Liguria (the region in which we are located) are on either an orange or red alert.

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted heavy rains, gusty winds, thunderstorms and rough seas. In many areas of Liguria the ground has already reached the saturation point due to significant amounts of rain so experts are concerned about potential flooding.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (snack bar in the marina)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 6pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

What you need to know before hiking in the Cinque Terre

/ Amy Inman / 4 Comments

I recently posted this on both Instagram and Facebook, but seeing its overwhelming popularity I’ve decided to publish it here on the blog, too.

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Hiking in the Cinque Terre.

What could be better?  But there are definitely some things you should know first:

  • This is hiking, NOT walking. You’ll need to be in decent shape as you’ll definitely get your heart pumping with the steep stairs and inclines.
Photo: Nicole O’Neil
  • You’ll need to be sure-footed. The terrain is uneven and the trails are a combination of stairs (LOTS of them), packed dirt, stones and pebbles.  And oftentimes there won’t be a handrail (heads up for those of you with a fear of heights). img_8707
  • Wear proper footwear.  At the very least, you’ll need athletic trainers (but with decent tread as you’ll need the grip).  Don’t even think about hiking in slick-bottomed shoes, sandals or flip-flops.  Just don’t.  If you do, be warned that you can be ticketed and fined (rightfully so, trail rescues are costly and ultimately Italian taxpayers foot the bill—no pun intended).
  • Don’t hike in the rain.  Trails become slippery and dangerous when wet.  And did you read where I said that oftentimes there are no handrails?  Don’t risk it.  Plus, the trails are officially closed during poor weather conditions.
  • Get off the beaten path (or get a very early start on the popular trails). The Cinque Terre National Park offers 120km of trails, but most people only know about the coastal trail that spans 12km.  I love hiking the lesser known trails that offer just as much beauty and a whole lot more tranquillity. 
  • The best months for hiking in the Cinque Terre are April, May, June, September and October.  July and August are usually just too hot for pleasurable hiking.  Between November and March you can get some great hiking in, but only when the weather cooperates.

Amy hiking to Monesteroli

Photo: Nicole O’Neil

If you’ve read all of the above and you still feel you’re up for it then by all means, get out hiking! You’re going to love it.

img_8482

Cinque Terre on a level orange storm warning starting tonight, October 14

/ Amy Inman / Leave a comment

From 10pm tonight until 3pm tomorrow, October 15, a level orange storm warning has been issued for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas.

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted heavy rains, gusty winds, thunderstorms and rough seas.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (snack bar in the marina)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

What do I recommend? Use this day to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be cautious and prepared for heavy rains (and ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Mostly, just be prudent.