Cinque Terre Insider tips

Cinque Terre ferry schedule: Summer 2021

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If you’re planning to visit the Cinque Terre this summer you’re probably keen on the idea of taking the ferries between the villages. Don’t forget that the ferries stop in just four of the five villages (Corniglia is located high above the sea so there’s no docking point there). The ferries also run further down the coast to picturesque Portovenere (which I highly recommend visiting).

Here’s the ferry schedule for this summer:

La Spezia – Portovenere – Cinque Terre – Levanto ferry schedule

PRICING

The current rate for an all-day hop-on, hop-off pass within the Cinque Terre is €27 per adult / €15 per child (ages 7 to 11 years). If you’d like to include Portovenere with that pass the price increases to €35 per adult (but remains €15 per child). Children 6 years and under are free when traveling with an adult.

There’s also the possibility to buy point-to-point tickets. To give you an idea of pricing:

Riomaggiore to Manarola: €7 adult / €5 child

Riomaggiore to Vernazza: €11 adult / €5 child

Riomaggiore to Monterosso: €13 adult / €5 child

Riomaggiore to Portovenere: €14 adult / €10 child

WHERE TO BUY TICKETS

Unless you are a group of 20+ people, tickets are not sold in advance. It’s recommended to turn up 30 minutes prior to your first departure to purchase your tickets at the stand near the docking point.

INSIDER TIP: While the website mentions they accept credit cards it has been my experience that oftentimes they do not. Rather than scramble to look for an ATM at the last moment, bring enough cash to cover your tickets — just in case.

The ferries are run by Consorzio Marittimo Turistico 5 Terre Golfo dei Poeti. You can check out their official website and full offerings here.

Heads up: Don’t confuse the ferry service (which is essentially like a water taxi taking you rather quickly from point A to point B) with the small boat private or semi-private tours. While typically more expensive than the ferries, these boat tours offer a relaxed pace and intimate ambience with optional swim stops and aperitivi. If you are interested in a private or semi-private boat tour please support local. If you’re interested drop me a message and I’ll forward you a list of tried and true local boat tour companies.

Enjoy!

Coronavirus in Italy: Keep calm & carry on

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Please note: This is an ever-evolving story due to the dynamic nature of contagion. All data was correct at the time it was published. Periodic updates will be posted as footnotes to this post.

Let me start by saying, as of today there have been zero confirmed cases of the coronavirus in Liguria (the region in which the five Cinque Terre villages are located). Because we neighbor regions where there have been confirmed cases, our regional government has enacted special precautions which include closing schools and public venues as well as canceling sporting events until March 1, 2020. On that date the situation will be reevaluated and the ordinance will either be lifted or extended.

The Italian government is taking the coronavirus seriously and they have implemented measures to isolate the outbreak. A coordinated response has also been enacted to quell alarm and the dissemination of fake news.

Despite media hype, the coronavirus is considered only slightly more dangerous than the average flu and mortality rates confirm that. The most challenging aspect of the coronavirus from a logistical standpoint is its rapid transmission.

There are currently 283 confirmed cases in Italy, with the majority in the regions of Lombardy (206 cases) and Veneto (38 cases). Overall, infection rates continue to be very low in Italy, which has a population of 60.48 million people.

What can you do to limit the spread of the coronavirus?

  • Wash your hands thoroughly and often
  • Avoid contact with people who have respiratory illnesses
  • Do not touch your eyes, nose or mouth with your hands
  • Cover your mouth and nose when you sneeze or cough
  • Do not take antibiotics unless prescribed by a doctor
  • Clean surfaces with disinfectants
  • Wear a face mask ONLY if you think you are sick or assisting the sick
  • In Italy: Call 112 if you have fever, cough or respiratory difficulties, especially if you have recently been to China or you have traveled to identified areas of contagion

Most importantly, keep calm and don’t panic. It’s currently life as usual in the Cinque Terre, with some extra hand washing thrown in the mix.

xo

UPDATE (25 February 2020, 15:15)

Less than an hour after publishing this post it was made public that a woman in Alassio, Liguria (the westernmost portion of our region, the Cinque Terre is located on the eastern border with Tuscany) tested positive to the coronavirus. She has been hospitalized and is listed as being in good condition.

Works on the Cinque Terre railway line between January 7 and March 7, 2020

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First and foremost, BUON ANNO NUOVO!

The year 2020 in the Cinque Terre will start off with major works (amounting to €3.7 million) on the railway lines. If you plan to visit our area between January 7th and March 7th expect less frequent trains as they will be running on just one line (for both directions) instead of two. Is this a problem for visitors? Not really, so long as you plan out which trains you plan to catch in advance (using the TrenItalia app, official website: http://www.trenitalia.com or the handy schedule below) so as to avoid wasting time at the stations. In most cases there will be one train per hour in each direction during prime time but there is an instance in which there’s a two hour gap between trains (between the 8am and 10am trains).

The planned works will focus on the Riomaggiore train station where they will expand the second platform and modernize the station itself. Works will also take place in the tunnel that connects La Spezia to the Cinque Terre; the current drainage system will be updated and security measures will be optimized.

xo

Experience Monterosso’s live nativity scene on December 7th

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The nativity scene is a quintessential holiday tradition in Italy (the Christmas tree, although now just as popular, is considered imported). Most of us are familiar with static versions of the nativity scene but if you are lucky enough to happen upon a dynamic, live version the experience is magical.

Monterosso will host its very own live nativity scene on Saturday, December 7th, from 12 noon to 7pm. Visitors will wind their way through the historical center on medieval lanes where they can witness vignettes portrayed by locals and sample traditional cuisine. If you are in the area that day you won’t want to miss it!

Yet another weather alert for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas

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UPDATE (3:20pm, 3 November 2019):

The storm warning has been upgraded to level red (maximum alert) until midnight tonight in ZONE C for those areas with medium to large drainage basins. The levels of local rivers and waterways are rising to alarming levels which led to the maximum alert being issued for potential flooding.

⚠️The Cinque Terre villages have small drainage basins so they remain on a level orange (mid-level) alert. However, the alert has been extended to 6pm this evening (at which time it’s expected to downgrade to yellow). Regardless, it is recommended that we stay indoors and out of the weather today.

ORIGINAL POST:

A level orange weather alert has been issued for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas starting tonight at midnight and lasting until tomorrow, November 3, at 3pm. This is the fourth weather alert in the span of a month and locals are feeling the strain of being in a constant state of hyper vigilance.

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists are expecting heavy rains, gusty winds, thunderstorms and rough seas during the alert.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (focaccia and snack bar, located in the marina)

Non Solo Pizza (street food)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors.

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 3pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

P.S. You can monitor the status of the alerts on the ARPAL website (they are the government agency that issues them).

Nearest international airports to the Cinque Terre

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If you are planning to visit the Cinque Terre either at the beginning or the end of your trip to Italy, flying into (or out of) one of the nearby international airports can save you lots of travel time and hassle.

Italy’s airports

I used to fly in and out of Italy’s largest hubs (Rome and Milan) because ticket prices were always lower. However, once I factored in travel expenses (not only getting to the airport but oftentimes a nearby hotel for early departures or late arrivals) I soon realized it made more sense to pay a little more for my ticket to use the closer airports. Plus, there’s the convenience factor—these airports, although international, are small and super easy to navigate.

Here are my top choices for airports, starting with my favorite:

PISA GALILEO GALILEI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (PSA)

Aeroporto di Pisa

This is my top choice airport as it’s connected directly to the railway line and it couldn’t be simpler to reach (for tickets on the TrenItalia website or app enter Pisa Fermata Aeroporto as your station of choice). And did I mention that from the Cinque Terre it takes as little as 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach the airport? Of course, it all depends on the trains you choose—some will take 2 hours—but that’s directly to the airport with no other means of transport necessary.

GENOA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (GOA)

Aeroporto di Genova

Genoa is also very close to the Cinque Terre (as little as 1 hour and 9 minutes away by train), but this airport slips to my second choice because the airport is not connected directly to the railway line. This means you’ll need to take a shuttle bus (called Volabus) from the airport to either of Genoa’s main train stations: Genova Piazza Principe or Genova Brignole. The bus ride from the airport to the train station will take approximately 30 minutes. Check the train schedule in advance (either via the TrenItalia app or the TrenItalia website) so you know which of the two stations you should head to.

FLORENCE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (FLR)

Aeroporto di Firenze-Peretola (formerly Amerigo Vespucci)

This is my third choice airport to fly in and out of. Florence is further from the Cinque Terre (approximately 2 1/2 hours by train) and you’ll have to take a twenty-minute shuttle bus (called Volainbus) or a twenty-minute tram ride (on the T2 line) to transfer from the airport to the Firenze Santa Maria Novella train station (Florence’s principal station). Oftentimes visitors already have Florence on their travel itinerary so it can make sense to fly in or out of this airport.

If you’re not keen on traveling by train to or from the airport, you can opt for hiring a N.C.C. (that’s short for noleggio con conducente, which is a hired car with driver). To explain to people what these are, I liken them to the black car limousines in NYC (they are usually nicer than a taxi and you have to call or arrange for them in advance, they won’t be at the taxi stands). While obviously more expensive, this is the stress-free way to travel (there’s something to be said about someone standing at the arrivals gate with a board with your name on it). Heads up: If you are 4-6 people oftentimes the price won’t be a whole lot more than what you would spend on the train.

TIP: If you’re staying in Riomaggiore or Manarola I recommend booking 5Terre Transfer as they can drive down into the villages unlike any other N.C.C. (be sure to let them know you were referred by me to get the best rates). Also, if you’re flying into Pisa or Florence they can work in a stop at the Leaning Tower along the way.

I hope you find these practical tips helpful!

P.S. Isn’t my graphic designer awesome? He pulled this map of Italian airports out of his hat for me today. Props to 5Service! Always proud to #supportlocal

Italian train strike from 9pm tonight until 9pm tomorrow

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Italian rail employees have declared a 24-hour national train strike from 9pm on October 24th to 9pm on October 25th.

Until the strike starts, we won’t know to what extent the it will be observed (and how much it will affect travelers). Keep in mind that even during a strike minimum service is required by law: select regional commuter trains will run between 6am and 9am and between 6pm and 9pm during weekday strikes. Also, Italy’s premier high-speed Freccia trains are not affected by strikes.

For more details about Italian train strikes and what to expect, check out my previous post here. You can also find more details about this specific strike on the official TrenItalia website here (but—ahimè—it’s in Italian).

Deep breaths, don’t stress and safe travels,

Another weather alert for Liguria and Cinque Terre

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Starting at midnight tonight through 6pm tomorrow (October 24) a level orange weather alert has been issued for the entire region of Liguria (which includes the Cinque Terre).

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted a fast-moving storm that is expected to traverse the entire region from west to east with heavy rains, potentially gusty winds and thunderstorms.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (focaccia and snack bar, located in the marina)

Non Solo Pizza (street food)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 6pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.

Why are storm warnings and weather alerts so frequent in the Cinque Terre?

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If you follow the blog or my social media accounts, you’re probably wondering why we have so many storm warnings and weather alerts here in the Cinque Terre.

If a picture is worth a thousand words, these videos are probably worth a million.

The date was October 25, 2011. In just six hours a storm dumped 54.2cm (that’s over 21 inches) of torrential rain onto our already fragile territory causing streams to overflow and (mostly abandoned) drystone terraces to collapse.

The villages of Vernazza and Monterosso were devastated by flooding and mudslides. Four locals lost their lives: three in Vernazza and one in Monterosso. The outcome could have been much, much worse.

The same storm rocked the Val di Vara (located on the opposite side of ridge from the Cinque Terre) and left seven victims in its wake. Just two weeks later, another storm with copious amounts of rain flooded Genoa, killing six people.

To put it simply, we have much at stake and much to fear when it comes to storms here. In the event of a natural disaster, city halls—and ultimately their mayors—can be held responsible in both civil and penal courts if adequate security measures were not taken in advance. For this reason, most city halls err on the side of caution and automatically enact storm warning action plans as soon as the alert is issued. Can it be annoying that schools are cancelled or businesses are forced to close? Absolutely. But I’d much rather be inconvenienced than repeat the tragedy we experienced in 2011.

Perspective changes everything.

Another weather alert for Liguria and the Cinque Terre: October 20 & 21

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From 5pm today until 6pm tomorrow, October 21, a level orange weather alert has been issued for the Cinque Terre and surrounding areas. Other areas of Liguria (the region in which we are located) are on either an orange or red alert.

The Cinque Terre villages are located where you see the letter C

Meteorologists have forecasted heavy rains, gusty winds, thunderstorms and rough seas. In many areas of Liguria the ground has already reached the saturation point due to significant amounts of rain so experts are concerned about potential flooding.

Are you wondering why weather alerts and storm warnings are seemingly so frequent in our area? Check out this post.

Alerts are classified as either yellow, orange or red depending on the level of risk associated (yellow being the lowest on the scale and red the highest). As this is an orange alert, extra safety precautions within the Cinque Terre automatically go into effect. In the Comune di Riomaggiore (which encompasses the villages of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Volastra and Groppo) businesses located within potential flood zones are required to close, vehicles must be moved to areas not prone to flooding and organized tour groups are not permitted to visit the villages (amongst a plethora of other ordinances, but these are the main ones that affect those visiting our area). During the weather alert all hiking trails in the Cinque Terre National Park are officially closed.

If you are staying in the Cinque Terre we recommend buying food and snacks to tide you over as many businesses (bars, restaurants, shops, offices, etc.) are required to close. Only a select few businesses (with secondary emergency exits or outside of the flood zones) are allowed to remain open.

Here are the businesses that are permitted to stay open during a level orange weather alert for the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola (but keep in mind that just because they can open doesn’t mean that they will open). Also, chances are that the few places open will be very busy and with potentially long lines.

Riomaggiore:

Fuori Rotta (bar/café)

Farmacia (pharmacy)

Coop 5Terre (grocery market, the one located higher up on via Colombo)

La Zorza (bar/café)

Dau Cila (restaurant)

A Pié de Mà (wine bar)*

Focacceria da Paolino (snack bar in the marina)

Manarola:

Aristide (bar/café/restaurant)

Trattoria dal Billy (restaurant)

La Scogliera (restaurant)

Nessun Dorma (bar/café)*

*I think it’s extremely unlikely these businesses will be open during a weather alert as their seating is outdoors

If you are staying in Corniglia, Vernazza or Monterosso speak with your host to see how you will be potentially affected by the weather alert.

At 6pm the weather alert is expected to downgrade to yellow, meaning that businesses are able to reopen.

What do I recommend? Use this time to catch up on sleep or some much-needed R&R. Delve into a new book or catch up on emails. If you decide to venture out, be prudent and prepared for heavy rains (and be ready to turn back should conditions worsen). Steer clear of low-lying areas that are prone to flooding. Don’t be alarmed, just be cautious.