Cinque Terre Insider

American expat insight into Italy's fabulous "Five Lands"

In early April, 2015, a small inauguration party was held with local politicians and Italian railway representatives for the reopening of circa 200 meters of the Via dell’Amore (Lovers’ Lane).

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photo credit: Città della Spezia News

This tract, considered the first of seven phases of the Via dell’Amore project, includes the beginning of the path from the train station in Manarola to the Bar Via dell’Amore (which is currently closed). For more details on the Via dell’Amore, its history and the current works in progress, check out my previous post here.

As it currently stands, the remainder of the path (from just after the Bar Via dell’Amore to Riomaggiore) is closed while works continue to contain slides and improve safety measures. Statements from the Regione di Liguria  pledge continued funding of 1.5 million euro towards the project with promises of reopening another portion of the path before the end of 2015.

I took a little outing to Manarola to check out the reopened portion of the Via dell’Amore myself.  I was disappointed (but not surprised) to find that signage at the Manarola train station was lacking regarding the current status of the path.   I found myself walking with numerous visitors who were clueless that only a very small portion of the Via dell’Amore is open.  Granted, had they inquired at the Tourist Info points they would have received accurate status details but a strategically placed sign or two would save everyone a lot of time and confusion.

The extensive work that has been done to secure the first 200 meters of the path is evident. But the Via dell’Amore, as it currently stands, is anticlimactic.  It’s important to remember that this is a massive project and this is just the first of many steps towards the ultimate goal of a complete reopening of the Via dell’Amore.

I couldn’t help but cringe when I read the English translation. I’d happily offer my translation services for free!

At the moment, my advice is to skip the Via dell’Amore.  In the meantime, you can take a lovely stroll in Manarola out to Punta Bonfiglio. Or, if you’re in Riomaggiore you can take a panoramic walk around the village on via Signorini, which starts at the Riomaggiore train station.


If you’d like to see the behind the scenes work that took place to reopen these first 200 meters of the Via dell’Amore, check this out.

15 thoughts on “The underwhelming partial reopening of the Via dell’Amore

  1. akorey says:

    Indeed underwhelming! I often wonder why they don’t use expat resources for translation of such crucial signage. Although effective, a colon might have helped it read “do not pass: rock fall” 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Sinan Altinok says:

    Is the Via dell’Amore path still closed or partly under construction?

    Like

    1. Ciao Sinan,

      Aside from a few hundred meters on the Manarola side, the Via dell’Amore is still closed (all works are at a standstill).

      Amy

      Like

      1. Sinan Altinok says:

        Hi Amy,

        I’m terribly sorry to hear that as we will be in CT this week. We were expecting to take walk on that historic path of Amore. Thanks anyway 🙂

        Ciao,
        Sinan

        Like

      2. Ciao Sinan,

        I understand your disappointment and trust me, you’re not the only one to feel that way! I recommend taking the panoramic stroll around Riomaggiore when you’re here as it’s beautiful and similar in difficulty and length as the Via dell’Amore. I have a post describing it here on the blog.

        Best,
        Amy

        Like

  3. Is it too much to plan a train ride from La Spezia to Monterrosso; hike to Vernazza, spend a few hours there, hike to Corniglia on one day. Train to Corniglia and hike to Manrolo, train/bus to Riomaggiore the next day?

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    1. Ciao Mary Anne!

      It’s definitely doable. However, if you are planning on coming anytime soon keep in mind that it’s HOT right now and you’ll want to get any hiking in super early when it’s a bit cooler.

      Best,
      Amy

      Like

      1. We understand there are no hiking trails open between Manarola and Riomaggiore now. We will be there first week in September.

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  4. Ben says:

    Hi Amy,

    My father and I were just there in September 2019, and it was still closed. I had visited in October 2017, and had hoped it would be open by then, but have since made my peace with the fact that Italians do things in their own time. Do you think it likely it will be open in 2021? I don’t plan on returning to Italy this year, but maybe in 2021…

    I’m also fascinated by American ex-pats living in Italy. It would be interesting to hear your story, Amy, on how you came to be living in the CT. Like many visitors to Italy, I have a mild fantasy of moving there and working remotely (I’m aware of the several difficulties with this).

    I’ve enjoyed what I’ve read of your blog so far. You have a lot of information I wasn’t able to find anywhere else.

    Like

    1. Ciao Ben!

      Currently our local administration says the Via dell’Amore will open in 2023. Honestly? I have my doubts. At the moment there are zero works in progress (perhaps behind the scenes something is being done on the paper trail but actual physical work, no).

      Moving to Italy isn’t easy (not so much the actual moving part, but getting all of your paperwork and visas in order, etc.). I did it 17 years ago and it was a process that took over two years. I don’t think things are much more streamlined today. But, where there’s a will, there’s a way!

      Thanks for your compliments on the blog! It makes my day to receive positive feedback. Grazie mille!

      Ciao for now,
      Amy

      Like

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